15 Lawn Weeds You Should Know and How to Control
Discover the top 15 lawn weeds you should know and how to control them effectively. Learn practical tips, home remedies, and lawn care strategies to keep your grass healthy and weed-free.
There’s something downright magical about stepping onto a lawn that feels like plush carpeting under your feet. When it’s vibrant and weed-free, your yard practically begs you to kick off your shoes and indulge in a moment of pure relaxation. But weeds? They’re the party crashers that show up unannounced, take center stage, and refuse to leave without a fight.
In this article, we’re exploring 15 of the most notorious lawn weeds—some you can easily recognize, and others that might be a bit sneaky. We’ll talk about why they’re an issue, how to spot them, and crucially, how to kick them to the curb. If your green kingdom has turned into a battlefield, think of this guide as your secret weapon. Let’s get started!
1. Dandelion
Identification
Dandelions are like the bright, perpetually cheerful relative who arrives without warning and sets up camp. These sunshine-yellow blossoms morph into the iconic fluffy seed heads that kids (and adults) can’t resist blowing into the wind. You’ll commonly find them poking through cracks in the sidewalk and spreading their deep taproots far into your lawn. Each flower stands proudly on a slender stalk, with jagged, tooth-like leaves forming a rosette at ground level. When you snap off a leaf, you might notice a milky sap—a classic dandelion giveaway.
Control Methods
Controlling dandelions starts by tackling their robust taproot. Hand-pulling is effective if you remove the entire root—leave even a tiny piece behind, and a new dandelion will wave hello in no time. A specialized weed removal tool with a narrow, notched blade can work wonders here. Consistent mowing can also keep dandelions from going to seed, reducing their ability to spread. For larger infestations, targeted spot treatments with herbicides can knock them back. Just remember: healthy grass naturally outcompetes dandelions, so maintaining lush turf through proper fertilization, watering, and mowing is your best long-term defense.
2. Crabgrass
Identification
Crabgrass is the rebellious teenager of the weed world: it grows fast, sprawls outward, and refuses to stay in neat, polite clumps. Each plant has coarse, light-green leaves arranged in a fan shape close to the ground. In late summer, you’ll often notice finger-like seed heads that further broadcast its presence. Typically, crabgrass germinates in warm soils—think early to mid-summer—and thrives in thin, stressed lawns where it can find sunlight and open soil.
Control Methods
A pre-emergent herbicide applied in spring is the first line of defense, preventing crabgrass seeds from sprouting. This approach is like locking the door before the party crashers even know there’s a celebration. If it’s already germinated, a post-emergent herbicide designed specifically for crabgrass can help. Hand-pulling can work for smaller patches, especially if the soil is moist—like after rainfall or watering. Long-term control revolves around proper lawn care: mowing at a higher setting to shade the soil, ensuring your turf is well-fed, and watering deeply yet infrequently. This encourages strong grass roots and leaves less wiggle room for crabgrass to sneak in.
3. White Clover
Identification
White clover is the charming trickster: it produces dainty white flower clusters and trifoliate (three-part) leaves that sometimes sport a faint white crescent. At first glance, you might find it somewhat attractive—like a sprinkling of tiny snowballs across the lawn. But if your goal is a uniform expanse of grass, clover’s creeping growth habit can crowd out desired turf in no time.
Control Methods
White clover loves nitrogen-poor soil, so upping your fertilization game can often tip the balance in favor of grass. If clover is just getting started, hand-pulling or spot-treating with broadleaf herbicides can work wonders. In many cases, just giving your lawn a boost with proper feeding and watering can help your turf flourish, pushing clover out naturally. Think of it like a see-saw: if grass is strong, clover can’t dominate. Keep your mowing height modest (around 2.5-3 inches) and your turf dense, and this white-headed guest will have a much tougher time sticking around.
4. Chickweed
Identification
Chickweed tends to appear as a dense, mat-like carpet of small, oval leaves with petite white star-shaped flowers. There are two main varieties: common chickweed, which has a line of “hairs” along its stem, and mouse-ear chickweed, whose leaves are somewhat fuzzy. Both forms can remain green through much of the year, even in cooler weather, making them hardy and persistent guests.
Control Methods
A simple approach to controlling chickweed is by hand—weeding when the soil is damp helps you remove the entire root system more easily. Keeping up with mowing can prevent this weed from going to seed and blanketing your yard with future generations. If you need additional backup, look for a broadleaf herbicide labeled for chickweed. Improving drainage in soggy spots and ensuring your lawn gets adequate sunlight also makes your turf less inviting for chickweed. Think of it this way: if your grass is the life of the party, chickweed struggles to find a seat at the table.
5. Plantain
Identification
Broadleaf plantain is easy to spot with its big, oval leaves and characteristic ribbed veins. A close cousin, buckhorn plantain, has narrower leaves. Both tend to form low-growing rosettes, often sprouting in compacted or neglected soil. In summer, they send up thin, leafless stalks that bear small, clustered flowers. Plantains can be mistaken for other broadleaf weeds, but their distinctive leaf shape and strong parallel veins are usually a giveaway.
Control Methods
Loosening compacted soil is your first move, since plantains thrive in tough, densely packed ground. Aerating in spring or fall can help your turf breathe, making it stronger and less vulnerable to weeds. If the plantain population is small, hand-pulling works—just be sure to remove the entire root. For larger outbreaks, a broadleaf herbicide can provide relief. Be mindful that consistent lawn care—fertilizing, overseeding bare spots, and watering deeply—prevents these hardy rosettes from setting up shop in the first place.
6. Oxalis (Yellow Wood Sorrel)
Identification
Oxalis, commonly called yellow wood sorrel, features bright green, heart-shaped leaflets that fold up at night or during gloomy weather. Its small, yellow, trumpet-like flowers produce elongated seed pods that can pop and fling seeds into neighboring areas. Sometimes mistaken for clover, Oxalis leaves have a distinct, sharp “heart” shape rather than the more rounded trifoliate look of clover.
Control Methods
Oxalis thrives in slightly acidic, nitrogen-poor soil. Balancing your lawn’s pH and ensuring regular fertilization can help your grass outgrow and overshadow Oxalis. If you spot small clusters, hand-pull them before they have a chance to develop seed pods. A specialized broadleaf herbicide can be an effective last resort for bigger infestations. Coupled with good mowing practices and consistent lawn maintenance, you’ll keep Oxalis from charming its way into a permanent residence on your turf.
7. Broadleaf Dock
Identification
Broadleaf dock flaunts tall, sturdy stalks and elongated, somewhat leathery leaves. In late spring or summer, it develops greenish to reddish seed heads that can stand as tall as three feet. This robust plant is particularly fond of moist, poorly drained soil and is often found in low-lying areas or near water sources. The large leaves can overshadow turf grass, depriving it of sunlight and elbow room.
Control Methods
For young dock plants, hand-pulling can be effective, especially if you moisten the soil beforehand. For more mature plants, slicing off the taproot a few inches below the surface can slow regrowth. A broadleaf herbicide works well, particularly when applied to actively growing dock in spring or fall. Improving drainage—either by aerating or filling in depressions—helps keep dock from making a comeback. Once you’ve got the moisture levels under control, your grass can outcompete it without too much hassle.
8. Creeping Charlie
Identification
Also known as ground ivy, Creeping Charlie is like that distant cousin who overstays his welcome. This weed produces round or kidney-shaped leaves with scalloped edges, connected by long, creeping stems. In spring, you might see purplish-blue flowers sprinkled around. It’s a shade-loving marauder that often thrives in damp, partially shaded lawn areas.
Control Methods
The creeping stems root at the nodes, so simply pulling up the top growth often isn’t enough. For small patches, careful hand-pulling—ensuring you lift every rooted segment—may suffice. More extensive infestations may need a broadleaf herbicide specifically targeting ground ivy. Improving sunlight penetration (by trimming overhanging branches, for example) and limiting moisture can make your lawn less inviting to Creeping Charlie. Think of it like dethroning a royal: you have to remove its entire realm, not just the figurehead, to regain control of your lawn kingdom.
9. Henbit
Identification
Henbit belongs to the mint family, so it sports the signature square stems and pairs of leaves that are directly opposite each other. Its leaves are rounded with scalloped edges, and in spring, you’ll see small, tubular purple flowers near the top of each stem. Henbit usually appears in cooler weather, often sprouting in early spring before your grass fully wakes up.
Control Methods
A thick, healthy lawn is your best bet against henbit. Overseeding bare patches in the fall helps crowd out winter annual weeds like henbit. If you spot them early, hand-pulling or hoeing before they flower can prevent seed production. For more stubborn infestations, broadleaf post-emergent herbicides labeled for henbit control will do the trick. Ensuring good lawn maintenance year-round—like mowing high and fertilizing appropriately—also helps your turf stay strong, leaving henbit fewer gaps to exploit.
10. Thistle
Identification
Thistles are the lawn invaders you definitely don’t want underfoot! Their prickly leaves and purple (sometimes pinkish) flower heads are instantly recognizable. Canada thistle, in particular, is notorious for forming colonies through extensive underground root systems. Touching these spiky leaves is an experience you’ll only want to try once.
Control Methods
The first step in battling thistle is to keep it from flowering and seeding. Mow or cut down flower stalks before those purple pom-poms appear. Consistent mowing can gradually weaken thistle plants, depleting their energy reserves. However, these weeds can regenerate from root fragments, so hand-pulling is tricky unless you get the entire taproot or rhizome network. A selective herbicide can be effective, particularly when applied in early spring or fall while the plants are still actively growing. Patience is key here: repeated treatments may be necessary to fully eliminate those menacing spikes.
11. Bindweed
Identification
Bindweed is like a sneaky vine that winds its way through your lawn and flower beds, often unnoticed until it’s too late. It has small, trumpet-shaped white or pinkish flowers that might look deceptively sweet. However, its thread-like vines spread aggressively both above ground and below via an extensive root system. Before you know it, bindweed can form a tangled mat that’s tough to unravel.
Control Methods
Persistence is paramount when tackling bindweed. Regularly pulling the vines above ground will weaken the plant over time, but you need to be consistent. Shielding your desirable plants with a piece of cardboard or plastic can let you apply herbicide directly to bindweed leaves. Some people employ the “paintbrush technique,” carefully painting herbicide onto bindweed leaves. The key is to target bindweed’s growth without damaging your lawn or garden plants. Over the long haul, improving your lawn’s density and health is the best deterrent. A robust turf simply doesn’t leave room for these sneaky vines to flourish.
12. Nutsedge
Identification
Nutsedge, sometimes called nutgrass, isn’t actually a grass at all—it’s a sedge, marked by its triangular stem and V-shaped leaves. It tends to grow faster than typical turf grasses, creating noticeable bright-green spikes that tower above the rest of your lawn. If you pull it and notice small tubers or “nutlets” clinging to the roots, you’ve got nutsedge on your hands.
Control Methods
Because of its tubers, pulling nutsedge often breaks off part of the root system, leaving behind future baby nutsedges. Selective herbicides made for sedges can help by penetrating the root system. Consistently mowing at a proper height also limits the weed’s ability to produce those telltale seed heads. Improving drainage can help, too—nutsedge thrives in waterlogged soil. Aerating, leveling out low areas, and watering less frequently but more deeply can make your lawn less friendly to this intruder.
13. Wild Violet
Identification
Wild violets look innocent enough with their heart-shaped leaves and delicate purple or white flowers. They often appear in shady or moist areas, where they form dense clumps that can overpower weaker turf grasses. Though their flowers may add a whimsical touch in spring, wild violets can spread via both seeds and underground rhizomes.
Control Methods
Hand-pulling can help if you do it diligently and remove the entire root system, but wild violets are tenacious. Specialized broadleaf herbicides labeled for violets can be effective if used correctly—typically in fall when the weed is storing energy in its roots. Maintaining a healthy lawn with proper sunlight, nutrient levels, and aeration is vital to reducing the chance of a violet takeover. Like many weeds, wild violets see an opportunity when your grass is under stress—so prevention begins with consistent lawn TLC.
14. Spurge
Identification
Spurge is a low-growing summer annual that often forms a dense mat. It has small, oval leaves, frequently marked with a reddish-purple spot in the center, arranged opposite each other on the stem. If you snap a stem, you’ll notice a milky sap—similar to dandelion but with a more watery texture. Spurge thrives in hot, dry conditions, making neglected or under-watered lawns especially vulnerable.
Control Methods
Pulling spurge by hand can be effective for minor invasions, but be sure to wear gloves because that milky sap can irritate skin. Pre-emergent herbicides targeting summer annuals work well if applied before spurge seeds germinate in spring. For established plants, a post-emergent broadleaf herbicide can help you stay on top of the problem. Maintaining a healthy lawn by mowing at the recommended height, watering effectively, and fertilizing in moderation provides a robust turf that’s less likely to get overrun by spurge. Think of it like building a strong fortress—spurge simply can’t barge in as easily when your lawn’s defenses are in top form.
15. General Prevention Tips
A weed-free lawn is all about proactive care. By ensuring your grass out-competes these invaders, you reduce the likelihood of major weed battles later. Here are some tried-and-true prevention strategies:
Proper Mowing: Set your mower blades to the recommended height for your grass type—usually between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. Taller grass shades the soil, making it harder for weed seeds to germinate.
Adequate Watering: Deep, infrequent watering encourages deep root growth. Frequent, shallow watering leads to weak turf and a welcoming environment for weed seeds.
Regular Fertilization: Well-nourished grass forms a thick canopy that weeds struggle to penetrate. However, over-fertilizing can cause its own set of problems—moderation is key.
Soil Testing and pH Balance: Test your soil every few years to ensure it has the right nutrient balance and pH level for your grass. Many weeds thrive in specific conditions—correcting imbalances deprives them of the environment they crave.
Aeration and Overseeding: Aerating in spring or fall relieves soil compaction, giving grass roots room to breathe. Overseeding helps fill in bare spots, denying weeds space to establish.
Prompt Weed Removal: The sooner you tackle new weeds, the less chance they have to seed. Hand-pulling or spot-treating young weeds can save you from dealing with a major infestation later.
Conclusion
Weeds can feel like the uninvited guests who keep showing up at your front door—relentless and, at times, downright annoying. But a well-informed, proactive approach helps you regain control of your yard. Whether you’re battling the sunny smile of a dandelion or the sneaky sprawl of creeping Charlie, the key lies in understanding what you’re up against and acting quickly. Think of these methods as your personal arsenal of weed-fighting tactics: from hand-pulling to herbicide, from aeration to proper mowing techniques. By focusing on building a healthy lawn that denies weeds the open real estate they crave, you’ll soon be on your way to that lush, barefoot-worthy turf you’ve always envisioned. After all, it’s your yard—why let the weeds run the show?
Read next: 15 Creeping Lawn Weeds and How to Stop Them
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I simply let clover grow in my lawn?
A: Absolutely, if you enjoy a more natural, eco-friendly look! Clover can help fix nitrogen in the soil, reducing fertilizer needs. However, if you prefer a uniform grass lawn, you may want to remove it.
Q: How often should I test my soil for pH and nutrients?
A: It’s generally recommended every two to three years, especially if you’re noticing problems like patchy grass or persistent weeds. A soil test kit or professional test can help pinpoint issues quickly.
Q: Are homemade weed remedies like vinegar sprays effective?
A: They can work on certain weeds, especially if the weeds are young and the solution is strong. However, these sprays often kill or damage any plant they touch, including grass. Selective herbicides or manual removal might offer more controlled results.
Q: What if my pet or child steps on a treated area?
A: Many commercial herbicides need time to dry before it’s safe for people or pets to walk on the lawn. Always follow the label instructions carefully and keep little ones (and furry friends) off the area until it’s safe.
Q: When is the best time to apply pre-emergent herbicides?
A: It depends on your region and weed type, but generally, spring applications (before soil temperatures hit about 55°F) are effective for summer annual weeds like crabgrass. Fall applications help prevent winter weeds like henbit or chickweed.
